Do-it-yourself fireplace stove for a brick house

Everyone would like to make their home as cozy and comfortable as possible. Currently, there are many different ways to solve the problems of comfort and practicality. But the most effective and indispensable for centuries is the construction of one of the many designs of furnaces. In this article, we will talk about how to make a fireplace stove for a house from a brick with your own hands.

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The device and principle of operation

To make a fireplace stove for a brick house with your own hands, you need to understand its structure and principle of operation:

  • The fireplace stove is installed on a fundamental stove, which is equipped on a drainage pillow of crushed stone and sand. The design has two combustion chambers. The one that creates the working area of ​​the fireplace is higher, and can be equipped with a glass door.
  • The firebox can be made both in the form of a rectangle, and in the form of a trapezoid. In the second case, it narrows to the back wall, which becomes inclined, with a small threshold - a gas threshold or a chimney tooth. Its purpose is to keep carbon deposits that settle on the walls of the chimney. Above the firebox there is a smoke collector passing into a direct gas channel.
  • The brick furnace fireplace has a reduced size and lower air blow. Depending on the configuration of the fireplace stove, the arch of the firebox can be equipped with a hob or covered with brickwork. Smoke from the furnace rises through vertical channels, equipped in accordance with the schemes of Swedish and Dutch stoves.

Important! If you plan to use both the stove and the fireplace at the same time, then a common chimney with two separate chimney channels is arranged.

  • To avoid the entry of combustion products into the room, the smoke channels of both devices are equipped with valves that can be shut off as necessary. In addition, the chimney is equipped with an additional damper that prevents heat leakage after complete combustion of the fuel.
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Calculation of the main parameters

First of all, you need to choose the place of installation of the fireplace stove for a brick house with your own hands, and then draw up a preliminary sketch of the design and shape. Having decided on the dimensions and configuration, you can proceed to the calculation of the main structural elements.

Important! Since only experienced craftsmen can fully calculate the construction strength, we recommend taking the dimensions and design of one of the Dutch or Swedish stoves as a basis and integrating the fireplace of your own design into the finished product. Of course, when choosing a heating device, you need to correlate its power with your heat needs.

If we talk about the calculation of the fireplace part, then it is done, based on the size of the room:

  • The ideal ratio of the width to the height of the fireplace stove for a brick house is 3: 2, but the depth of the firebox is taken to be ½ or ⅔ of its height.
  • It is worth understanding that the performance of the heating unit depends on how well the draft is made, so calculating the chimney cross-section is no less important than determining the parameters of the furnace. Experienced craftsmen take its size equal to 1/10 of the area of ​​the furnace window.The values ​​obtained are rounded up so that when building a chimney, use a whole brick. If you make a round chimney, then its cross section should be at least 15 cm.

Important! The fireplace stove for a brick house, which we offer to manufacture with our own hands, has a hob and can be used to divide the room into two separate zones, as well as to heat another, adjoining room. In the latter case, the back wall of the structure is built into the wall.

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Preparatory work

Before embarking on the construction of a fireplace stove for a brick house, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools.

Tools and materials

In order to build a fireplace stove, you will need the following set of tools:

  • Tape measure and metal ruler.
  • Building level.
  • Pickaxe hammer.
  • Trowel (trowel).
  • Rubber mallet hammer.
  • Grinder with cutting wheels for metal and stone.
  • Plumb line.
  • Tanks for solution and water.
  • The rule.
  • Stitching.
  • Bayonet shovel.
  • Building corner.
  • Cord mooring.
  • Hammer.
  • Rammer.

In order to build the foundation of a brick fireplace stove, you will need:

  • Sand (preferably large river).
  • Waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material can be used).
  • Mesh for reinforcement (can be replaced with metal rods, reinforcement segments or pieces of metal pipes, corners).
  • Nails and steel wire.
  • Edged boards for the manufacture of formwork.
  • Cement.

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For the construction of walls, as well as the formation of various sections of the fireplace stove for a brick house, you will need other materials:

  1. Solid red brick brand M-150.
  2. Sand and clay or a special composition for laying stoves.
  3. Fireclay refractory brick brand SHA-8.
  4. Boards and plywood for the manufacture of the template (when the overlapping of the fireplace insert is done in the form of an arch).
  5. Metal corners with a shelf size of at least 5 cm.
  6. The blower door.
  7. Metal gate valves.
  8. Furnace door.
  9. Balsat cardboard or sheet asbestos.
  10. Grid-irons.
  11. Doors for cleaning channels.
  12. Steel wire.
  13. Cast iron stove with hobs.
  14. Finishing materials (in the event that it is not planned to lay out, but a different type of finish on the upper surfaces).

Important! In addition, if the design of the heating unit provides for the installation of a fireplace cassette, then you need to purchase it at the design stage. This will make it possible to accurately determine the amount of brick for the fireplace stove and to understand if there is a need for refractory materials.

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Choosing a place for construction

When determining the place for the construction of a fireplace stove for a country house made of brick with your own hands, you must follow the same rules as for installing the usual heating appliances. When making a structure near wooden walls, a distance of at least 40 cm must be maintained between them and the furnace. Moreover, it is mandatory to install a heat-resistant screen made of an absent plate, metal sheet, drywall and other non-combustible materials.

Important! The gap between the furnace and the walls of the room is necessary not only to ensure the safety of the structure, but also to conduct periodic inspection, as well as repair of the side surfaces

If the installation of the fireplace stove and brick is planned on the periphery of the room, then one of the internal walls is chosen, because the proximity to the external perimeter will contribute to the cooling of the furnace too fast, resulting in a decrease in its thermal efficiency.

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Foundation preparation

To lay any kind of heating devices, it is necessary to equip a solid base. Since we are dealing with a construction, which, in fact, consists of two separate devices, the foundation should ensure the reliability and stability of the increased mass of wood heaters.

The scheme of work on creating a concrete slab, which is used as a support for a fireplace stove for a brick house, does not differ at all from the sequence of pouring the foundation of other stationary heaters. First, the outline of the base is marked - it is necessary that it protrudes beyond the perimeter of the heater by at least 10 cm. If the structure is installed in a room with a wooden floor, the part that is under the stove must be cut out.

Further work is carried out in the following order:

  • Dig a foundation pit between 0.5 and 0.7 m deep, depending on the soil.
  • Fill the bottom of the pit with a 10-cm layer of sand, which is well compacted and poured with water.
  • Fill the sand with the same layer of rubble, which is also carefully compacted.
  • At a height of 5-7 cm from the gravel, install a reinforcing mesh. To do this, use metal pins driven into the ground or lay the armo-belt on wooden blocks.
  • Align the foundation to formwork.

Important! When making the formwork, the top layer of all boards must be installed exactly in level. In the future, this will greatly facilitate the alignment of the surface of the foundation slab, and will also create a good reserve to ensure geometric design accuracy.

  • From crushed stone, sand and cement (ratio 1: 3: 4) make a solution, which pour into the prepared form.
  • Concrete is compacted with rammer and bayonet, and then leveled, following the rule on parallel parts of the formwork.
  • After the initial hardening of the solution, cover the structure with plastic wrap and leave it to dry completely.

Important! Cement manufacturers are advised to withstand concrete for at least 28 days, but in fact, you can start building a heating device after 7 days. The main thing is not to forget to separate the masonry from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. For this, roofing material with which concrete is covered in two layers is best suited.

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Solution preparation

If factory building mixtures are used for bricklaying, then they are prepared according to the manufacturer's recommendations. We suggest using the experience of experienced craftsmen who claim that they have not yet come up with better material for the construction of furnaces than clay.

The masonry mortar is made of sand and clay, adding water in the amount required to form a thick sour cream. The amount of sand is determined on the basis of the clay content. In percentage terms, it can reach up to 35%. It is best to mix solutions with different compositions in several containers, mold them into small cakes and allow them to dry. For work, the composition whose sample is least cracked is considered suitable.

Important! Before preparing the solution, the clay should be kneaded and plant residues and other impurities removed from it. After that, the material is soaked in water for 24 hours. Do not mix immediately a large amount of solution - it is better to prepare it as needed. The fact is that when cooling, the sand will still settle to the bottom, so you will need to mix further.

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Masonry cooking stove

Before starting to masonry on the prepared solution, the craftsmen recommend folding the unit dry. This will provide an opportunity to get acquainted with the features of each row, as well as identify possible difficulties and prepare all the necessary elements of a fireplace stove for a brick house to work with.

After the “dry” erection, you can start laying the brick in a “wet” way. Dry bricks will draw moisture from the solution, so if you should soak for a couple of hours. This method is good in that at the same time the drying of the masonry joints increases their mutual adhesion, thereby increasing the mechanical strength of the entire structure.

Important! When laying out some rows, it is necessary to use not a whole brick, but its halves, or even a third of the part.To do this, you can use an angle grinder or break up building material with a pickaxe.

Before work, the ordering scheme is preferably printed on paper. When working, the ranks are marked - this additionally contributes to a better organization of work. We also recommend that you use the instructions below to create a fireplace stove for a brick house with your own hands, which was compiled taking into account the advice and recommendations of experienced master stove-makers.

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Step-by-step instruction:

  • Lay the first row in continuous, all the time controlling the level, as well as the geometric parameters. To facilitate your task, draw with chalk on the roofing material the edges of the base of your furnace.
  • The second row, begin to form the flue, blowing chamber, as well as the combustion space.

Important! In order for the joint thickness to be equal to the required 5 mm, 7-8 mm of mortar should be applied to the brick.

  • Before you start laying the third row, pass the wire into the special ears of the blower door. After that, install the metal part in place and support it with a brick. Lay the wire in brickwork - this will make it possible to securely fix the furnace cast iron.

Important! During the operation of the furnace, its cast-iron elements will heat up, and since brick and metal have different coefficients of thermal expansion, this can lead to cracks in the places of their installation. To avoid this, it is necessary to install gaskets made of basalt or asbestos gasket between the doors and the masonry.

  • Fourth next start the calculation of the combustion chamber. In parallel, begin to form the bottom of the fireplace insert. To make the ceiling, which is located under the fireplace of a wood niche, use a pair of metal corners, which will act as a support for the bricks of the upper row. Use the same corner to support the brick, with which the doorway will be blocked from above. Do not forget that the walls of the fireplace and combustion chambers are laid out with fireclay brick installed on the edge.

Important! Experienced craftsmen advise reducing the thickness of the masonry seam for fireclay bricks to 3 mm.

  • In the fifth row, lay the grate on the side bricks of the blower chamber. Between the refractory material of the furnace and the red brick of the walls, install basalt cardboard gaskets.
  • Install the fire door before laying the sixth row.
  • In the eighth row above the door, install a metal corner and up to the tenth row, lay without additional elements.
  • In the eleventh row, install a stove with hobs, continuing to build up the massif of the furnace in the internal channels.
  • Starting the thirteenth row, lay a steel corner over the fireplace insert. Laid on a metal strip with a brick, begin to make the overlap and the mouth with a smoke collector.
  • In the nineteenth as well as twentieth rows, cover the opening over the cast-iron stove. Also use metal corners or pieces of steel reinforcement as floor support. Increase the internal channels, as well as the body of the heating unit, to the twenty-fourth row according to the ordering scheme.
  • On the twenty-fifth row, install a cast-iron valve. At the same time, it is important to ensure its tight fit to nearby bricks, for which use an increased amount of mortar.
  • Until the fiftieth row, carry out work according to the scheme, increasing the channels and walls of the fireplace stove.
  • From the fifty-first to the fifty-third row, overlap the heater, leaving only two vertical ducts for the exit of smoke into the pipe.
  • From the fifty-fourth row, start building a chimney.
  • On the sixty-fifth row, make the chimney channel valves that will protect the internal channels of the furnace from moisture and dirt during the period of inactivity.

As can be seen from the order, the furnace was originally designed taking into account the use of silicate bricks, with which its walls were formed until the fortieth row.If you like this design, then you can repeat the design of the developers. Otherwise, from the very first row, you can work with red brick. It is advisable to do the same when the surface of the furnace will subsequently be finished with decor.

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Chimney:

  • To remove the chimney in the fireplace stove for giving from a brick, cut a hole in the ceiling with your own hands. At this point, the pipe has a thickening - fluff. Its purpose is to reduce the temperature of the outer surface of the pipe.
  • Some masters do without cutting, and in order to protect the floor material from overheating and to avoid possible fire, they place heat-resistant material around the pipe. For these purposes, several layers of asbestos slabs or mineral (basalt) wool can be used. The main thing here is that the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.
  • Through the attic of the chimney, lay out according to the scheme of the sixty-fifth row, and at the exit through the roof, arrange an opening. This thickening of the chimney will prevent condensate and precipitation from running off its outer walls. Moreover, the roof opening must be additionally protected with reliable waterproofing.

Important! In the process of building a pipe for smoke, clay solution is used only indoors, as well as in the attic. Above the roof level, a sand-cement mixture is used for laying bricks.

  • To protect the chimney from dust, dirt and precipitation, install a metal cap on its head.
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Stock footage

As you can see, the construction of a fireplace stove for a country house made of brick with your own hands is a rather difficult and responsible task. If you doubt your abilities, then it is worth thinking about how to turn to an experienced master stove-maker for help, since the safety of your home will depend on the quality of the work done.

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